Showing posts with label tailoring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tailoring. Show all posts

Wednesday

Fashion Charts II


1. Julien David Fall/Winter 2014


2. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2014


3. John Lawrence Sullivan Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for dysfunctional tailoring, from Art to Deco. A psychological study of misplaced pockets (Julian), doubled lapel (Rei) and origami paneling (John). A physical readymade of the newly discovered, already established and ever ambitious. My top three.
/HORST

Monday

Couples III

Part I of 'Duplicate Diptych Week'



1. Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2013
2. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2013

When 2 becomes 1, a genderless power suit is created which is defined by dishevelledness and pinstripe. Fulfilling every business code and ignoring it simultaneously.
/HORST

Saturday

Post Paris XXVII

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Christopher Shannon, discussing:
Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013





Louise Wilson would say on the MA "It doesn't matter what you do, what's important is that you do it well", this really applies to Comme des Garçons. Without the great fabric, fit and finishing it could fall into scary BA collection territory. I'm always astounded by how well the pieces are made and the exploration and repetition of a few ideas. It's such a palette cleanser from the depressing abundance of hard lines, tight dresses and overly high shoes, so nice to see work that designers have touched. Still have no idea if anyone buys it though, apart from a few ageing gallery owners and art teachers.
/CHRISTOPHER



Extreme tailoring, shredded and über-constructed. Of origami roses, bows and knots. Like the neurotic, twisted fantasy of a lesbian investment broker. With a surrealist power suit parade, Rei Kawakubo is introducing Japanese Psycho. And once again, it all is like nothing before.
/HORST








1. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013
2. Amethyst Uruguay
3. Brian Ford Finchley N Gauge Scenic Model Railway Layout, 2012
4. Givenchy Vogue pattern, 1997
5. Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2001
6. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2013
7. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 1995
8. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013

All about Christopher Shannon
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