Fashion Charts IV

1. Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2014

2. Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2014

3. The Row Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for mall pyjamas and couchwear. The very best of luxury potatoe knitwear. So cozy (Francisco), so pedestrian (Marc), so miserable (Ashley and Mary-Kate). New York is dressing down for the 21st century.
/HORST

The Marc by Miu Miu Jacobs Scandal

1. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014
2. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2012
3. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
4. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2010
5. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
6. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2009
7. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2012
8. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013

By appointing Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier as the new creative power force behind the diffusion line Marc by Marc, a sleeping 'duo fatale' has been awakened. Shamelessly nicking the success formula of the rival house of Miu Miu, the end result can only be understood as open letter - or practical joke. All we witness is styling one-liners, same-same patterns and a long, repetitive punchline. No one is laughing.
/HORST

Identity Crisis II

1. Alexander Wang Fall/Winnter 2013
2. Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2007

Admittedly, it is massively good. Taking early Rick Ownes (balaclava and fur mittens) and adding some House of Balenciaga archive elements (waist knot). Chew slowly and don't choke.
/HORST

Concrete Living II

1. Acne Paris & Raf Simons Osaka
2. Acne New York & Jil Sander New York
3. Acne Paris & Raf Simons Tokyo

Venus de Milo as symbol for the modern woman, as icon of orientation, ideals, beauty (q.v. Acne Paris). A strict and steel version of Daedalus' gigantic labyrinth to hold the Minotaur reconstructed by Raf Simons & Gernaine Kruip (q.v. Jil Sander New York). Sterling Ruby's splatter theme and Roger Hiorns's 'crying tears' triangle wallpaper - echoing this disorientation (q.v. Raf Simons Toyko and Osaka).
/HORST

Disposal Diary

One week in New York City, captured in black and white with a disposal camera. Brooklyn, Harlem, Chelsea, Manhattan, Uptown, Downtown, High Line, Coney Island, Grand Central Oyster Bar.
/HORST

Post New York V

A false encyclopaedic guide to the New York collections, presenting:
Theyskens' Theory Spring/Summer 2013

1. Julia Roberts Pretty Woman, 1990
2. Céline Fall/Winter 1998 by Patrick Demarchelier
3. Jak & Jil 02.19.2012 New York

When the Céline gentlewoman pursues her second career as street walker and is caught by a street style photographer on a rainy night in New York we witness Theyskens' Theory.
/HORST