Grand Poop

LAZOSCHMIDL Spring/Summer 2015

A collection that follows the storyline of contemporary performance art. Tracking down the fascination of body liquids such as piss, shit, sperm and spunk, the garments turn the perverse universe of Sarah Lucas, Paul McCarthy and Gilbert & George into rich textures and embroidery. Stains are re-interpreted as crystal applications on silk dupion and screenprint on organza. The obscene turns into decadence.
/HORST

Granularity X

1. Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014
2. Helmut Lang Surrogate Skin, 2008
3. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
4. Helmut Lang Make It Hard, 2011
5. Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014
6. Helmut Lang Arbor, 2008
7. Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014
8. Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014
9. Helmut Lang Arbor, 2008
10. Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 1996 & Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014
11. Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014
12. Helmut Lang Front Row, 2009
13. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014

The Raf Sandior universe is a hermeneutic one. Like father, like son. Or like 'Fathers Fathers' and 'Abus(ive) Lang(uage)'. And as we know, this letter similitude is no coincidence. What would father say?
/HORST

Sweat And Stains, 2014

or 'Sperm, Spunk And Shit'

All clothes LAZOSCHMIDL
Belt Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

Not your average menswear-cum-couture. Debuting their first capsule collection for Spring/Summer 2015, LAZOSCHMIDL approach the post-body fetishism of contemporary art (that is: body liquids). Poop is reconfigured as screenprint artwork and piss is elevated as crystallized stain. Hand-sown, hand-painted, hand-embellished. Shop now!
/HORST

Globetrotters, or: A Collector's Collection

1. Dior Fall/Winter 2013
2. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
3. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
4. Dior Spring/Summer 2014
5. Dior Fall/Winter 2013 & Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
6. Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2013 & Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014

I love the fact that, in a way, the collaboration of Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby has delivered a masculinized, messier, multiplied version of the Dior cosmos. And now, for women as for men, it is all about the statement shoe and the statement bag.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Post Paris XXIV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Paris collections, presenting:
Veronique Branquinho Fall/Winter 2013

1. Veronique Branquinho Archive
2. Adriano Brusaferri Spindle tools used to calibrate organ pipes, 19th century
3. Satoshi Saikusa Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 1993

Paris re-opens the chapter of False Encyclopaedia. And since Veronique Branquinho's last show was my first show, this is an appreciation post. Celebrating craft, sincerity and stringency. The colour beige, the bustier top and turtleneck, the Belgian rigor.
/HORST

Helmut Dialogues IV

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2005
2. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013

In this dialogue, topics re-appear as answers. And motifs change tonality and shape. It is an intelligent conversation, an intelectual one. It's a discussion of kitsch and feminity. From two, very masculine, point of views.
/HORST